Tuesday, 3 May 2011

Achitecturally Inspired

Leeds Corn Exchange Ceiling
I chose to do about the Architecture brief; where we had to focus on different architectural buildings in & around Leeds or our home towns & using the influence us to design either shirts or blouses.
At first I chose to focus on the historical aspect of architecture to influence me but I began being influenced by certain pieces of modern architecture that I found in Leeds, for example; the Weatherspoons building opposite Leeds City Museum, so in the end I decided to have a contrasting brief, designing from both contemporary & historical that way it allows me to draw the best qualities from both & combine them.
          To link the architecture in with a garment I decided to transform the designs in to simple geometric shapes where i could then gain focus on both the line & tone of the design, which definitely helped me move on with the brief.
For my final geometrical design was focused on the Corn Exchange’s ceiling in Leeds as i loved the crossing over; i was then influenced to project this imagery  in to a textile technique such as pin tucking.
My Inspiration Board by Jade Gallagher
As the brief progressed on in to the pattern cutting & making stage I began to be really influenced by a modern architect; Toyo Ito as the garment I chose to make was influenced on line & shape of buildings from both historical & contemporary eras. Toyo’s work is very geometrically influenced as were my designs, so i began swapping around different shapes & styles of shirts while still keeping the main features of the garment.

Referencing:

(2011) at http://www.toyo-ito.co.jp/WWW/index/index_en.html (Accessed 3rd May 2011)
(2011) http://www.flickr.com/photos/52096016@N03/5499984137/ (Accessed 3rd May 2011)

Tuesday, 26 April 2011

Nike Sweatshops

A very popular brand of sportswear & clothing; Nike claimed to have ethical factories that are monitored on a regular basis.
However, it has come to many people’s attention that the claim have been proven false; revealing sweat shop & child labour conditions
The spokesman for Nike, Todd McKean released a statement to the press regarding this issue; "unfortunately we've found on occasion in different places isolated instances which I would say this is isolated." McKean, http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/panorama/archive/970385.stm
However, Neil Kearney from the International Textile, Garment and Leather Worker's Federation believes monitoring can be greatly improved, He says "They insist on high standards as far as quality is concerned. There's absolutely no reason why they cannot insist on the same standards for working conditions."http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/panorama/archive/970385.stm.
Personally, i agree with the latter quote! I’m sure people would be more than willing to pay a little extra if it aided the the conditions for the workers.
          Overall, i believe that this is definitely an issue that people need to address... quickly!


Referencing*:


(2009) “Nike Sweatshops – Never Say Never” at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a_D-azUogg&feature=related (Accessed 24th April 2011)

Kenyon, P (2000) “Gap and Nike: No Sweat” at http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/panorama/archive/970385.stm  (Accessed 24th April 2011)

(2005) “Nike’s Unethical Practices Unleashed” at  http://www.icmrindia.org/Short%20Case%20Studies/International%20Marketing/CLIM041.htm (Accessed 24th April 2011)


(2007) “Sweatshop Raided Again” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0F_mdRE7tM&feature=related (Accessed 24th April 2011)
  
(2008) “Human trafficking in Nike's sweatshop factory in Malaysia” at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9ZktmrGGMU (Accessed 24th April 2011)

 *Main References

Sunday, 27 March 2011

Nina Ricci RTW S/S 11 collection by Peter Copping - Paris Fashion Week, 6th March 2011 at 20:00.

Peter Copping has captured the true essence of the Nina Ricci style; keeping the attitude of a feminine & sexy French woman. “The label, which was founded upon an Italian woman's perspective of French women, has always focused heavily on soft feminine silhouettes that are both beautiful and wearable.” - Joynt (2010), http://www.textileglobal.com/2011/01/nina-ricci-ss11-paris-fashion-week-the-fashion-spot.html.
The look of this season has a very feminine feel to it which is definitely in keeping with the S/S season’s style, with a simple, toned down colour palette of black, white and deep cappuccino set the grounds to make way for something far more brighter; chartreuse, fuchsia, watermelon and purple made an eye-catching appearance in the designers latest collection.
This season has also taken a dramatic ‘U’ turn when it comes to hemlines – not only is there flouncy short skirts but also a variation of, knee-length and maxi lengths so we can take our pick.
This collection also involves a wide range of silhouettes ruffled blouses and frilled dresses & a finale of short one-shouldered cocktail dresses.

What I especially liked about this collection was the huge contrast of fabrics; Chantilly lace, silk chiffon and organza presented alongside washed silks, crinkle silk, satin and summer tweeds with wafting feather trims as well as light-weight leather.
                                Accessories include pastel leather belts to synch in the waist, simple shoes – High Mary Janes with an ‘X’-strap detail also including floral corsage trims which matched each particular garment. Alongside the garments, a selection of bags were created, including; long-strap shoulder bags & little clutch bags including appliquéd flower trims to match with the shoe range. I think these accessories really finish off the look of this collection!
                The whole collection arguably gives the feel of French frivolity although others feel “Peter Copping’s work at Nina Ricci is festinating, he’s managed to pin down the fact that underneath French frivolity beats a very dark art.” – Blanks (2011), http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzubizUr7VQ. This dark side that is referred to in the latter quote is in fact “The woman’s in control but not in an obvious way.” – Copping (2011), http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzubizUr7VQ.
                I think the venue was very fitting with a candlelit pathway entrance which gave a nice romantic French feel to the venue. Background was silky light pink fabric draped against the walls only leaving the pillars bar stone showing. The lighting wasn’t so much harsh light but almost dimmed slightly to follow on from the romantic entrance.
                I think the soft, feminine collection, as well as including the entrance; the lighting & the set up definitely set the mood for a very romantic feel to the atmosphere.
The catwalk was floor-level based which was in a squared ‘8’-like shape. Ford models - Hanne Gaby Odiele, Kate Kosushkina, and Karmen Pedaru were the most prominent models on the catwalk. Who caught people’s eyes with their very slim, very tall & conventionally pretty figures; it was only their figures that caught people’s eye but also their runway walk, with minimal strutting.
                                The chosen look was hair was simple, tied back in a low bun styled by Guido for Redken. Make-up was, pink eye-shadow to go with the setting of the background with light amounts of mascara & eye liner. The blusher & lipstick matched the pink eye-shadow however it wasn’t too much to be overly dramatic, make-up styled by Pat McGrath.
                I don’t believe that the fashion show was much of a theatrical performance, however the fashion didn’t particularly need the theatrics as the clothing alone was breath-taking enough.
                Music done by Steve Mackey its fast tempo and upbeat tune made way models walked at an even pace to the music however I’m not so sure
                The audience were floor-level based alongside the run way which can be quite a pain for the people on the back row not being able to see as clearly.






 Referencing*:
  
Phelps, N (2010) “Nina Ricci – Paris Fashion Week 2011” at http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2011RTW-NRICCI/ (Accessed 26th March 2011)

 Weil, H (2010) “2011 Fall Paris Fashion Week: Nina Ricci” at http://www.fabsugar.com/Fall-2011-Paris-Fashion-Week-Nina-Ricci-14656920 (Accessed 26th March 2011)

 Fabsugar Australia (2010) “2011 A/W Paris Fashion Week: Nina Ricci” at http://www.fabsugar.com.au/Autumn-Winter-2011-Paris-Fashion-Week-Nina-Ricci-Show-Pictures-14667742 (Accessed 26th March 2011)

(2010) “Nina Ricci: Paris Spring 2011 RTW” at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzubizUr7VQ (Accessed 26th March 2011)

(2010) “Nina Ricci Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear” at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJ9ms7JD7CA (Accessed 26th March 2011)

Joynt, S (2010) “Nina Ricci S/S11: Paris Fashion Week – The Fashion Spot” at http://www.textileglobal.com/2011/01/nina-ricci-ss11-paris-fashion-week-the-fashion-spot.html(Accessed 26th March 2011)

*Main References